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THE MIRACLE IN YOUR YARD There is perhaps no better example of Yankee ingenuity, thrift and self-reliance than the home septic system and well. Water from a well is being temporarily borrowed from a supply of groundwater that exists in the soil and bedrock. Once the water has been used in the home, it is returned to the groundwater system via the septic system. The miracle is that this water, if the system is properly functioning, is purified and ready to be used again. As the treated waste water leaves the septic system, it percolates down through the soil to enter the groundwater, where it could again become available for use in your own or your neighbor's well. In general, the groundwater will move very slowly downslope where it eventually surfaces in lakes and ponds or as run-off in streams and rivers, ultimately reaching the oceans. Once exposed on the surface, the water evaporates and falls as rain on the uplands, where some of it will percolate down into the groundwater system. HOW YOUR SYSTEM WORKS Three elements compromise a typical septic system: a tank, a distribution box and a leaching field. Septic tanks are rectangular concrete boxes capable of holding up to 1250 gallons of waste water. Solid wastes, such as bits of garbage and paper, settle to the bottom of the tank and are partially broken down by naturally occurring bacteria and the warmer waste water that does indeed make the grass greener over the septic tank. Waste water above the solids has suspended particles from the toilets, sinks, laundry and dishwasher. The surface of the water in the tank is covered by a layer of grease and foamy scum. Baffles in the tank prevent both the solid waste and surface scum from exiting the tank. The waste water with its suspended and dissolved matter flows from the tank to a distribution box, which regulates the flow so that all parts of the leaching field receive equal amounts of effluent. Most systems operate by gravity flow, but in some cases pumps may be used. The leaching field is generally a network of perforated plastic pipe surrounded by crushed stone and soil. Other types of drainfields include concrete or plastic structures surrounded by stone. Harmful bacteria which reach this part of the system are destroyed both by exposure to the air in the crushed stone and by other bacteria in the soil. Final purification takes place as the waste water percolates down into the soil and bedrock, where it becomes part of the groundwater system and pure enough for human consumption. Maintaining an effective leaching field that can absorb the waste water it receives is the key to septic success. Most failures are caused by neglecting to pump solid waste and grease out of the septic tank at least every three years. When solid matter overflows into the leaching fields, it clogs the soil, the surrounding gravel, and eventually the holes in the perforated pipe. The remedy for fixing a clogged field is drastic. An impressive array of construction equipment must be called upon to remove the ruined field and install a new one. Clearly, regular pumping of the septic tank every three years, at an average yearly cost that is far less than what city dwellers pay for municipal sewage and water, is both financially and aesthetically preferable to letting a system fail. GETTING TO KNOW YOUR SYSTEM The first step in becoming acquainted with your septic system is to locate your tank and fields and make a map. A good way to fix the location of the tank is to measure the distances from the two corners of the side of the house nearest the tank. Make several copies of the map and attach one copy in a plastic bag to the septic pipe where it exits the house. If you are unsure of your septic tank location, you can check with the Health District, which has the locations for newer houses and systems. If the Health District has no record, you or a septic system installer can usually locate the tank by probing carefully (don't puncture the pipe) with a metal rod in your yard or using a flexible pipe snake to find the distance of the tank from the house. You must contact a licensed septic tank cleaner to do the pumping (look in the Yellow Pages). When the tank is pumped, it is extremely important to have the baffles checked. Remember, the baffles keep the greases and solids in the tank and out of your fields. Over time, they may corrode and fall to the bottom the tank. They can be replaced fairly inexpensively. The top of most tanks is a foot or two below ground level, which means you must do some digging. The next time you pump your tank, you may want to place a short tile over the cleanout hole so you will have less digging in the future. The entire area above the septic system should be kept clear, unpaved, and unencumbered by any heavy loads such as a car or truck which could crush or damage the system. The ground above the fields should be kept mowed and raked to allow for maximum evaporation. Any surface water should be channeled away from the area. SYMPTOMS OF A SICK SYSTEM There are a number of indications that a leaching field may be failing, among them:
SECRETS OF A SUCCESSFUL SYSTEM Boat owners have a standing motto: do not put anything into your toilet unless it has been eaten first! This is a good advice for septic systems in general, but, of course, modern living styles make it hard to follow. Here are a few simple rules to keep in mind: DO have your tank pumped every three years, or more often if you have a garbage disposal- an appliance whose convenience should be balanced against the cost for premature replacement of the leaching fields. DON'T plant trees, bushes, or gardens over the septic fields. Roots could clog the system edible fruits and vegetables could pick up harmful bacteria. DO conserve water. Excessive amounts of water could saturate your leaching fields. If you do lots of laundry, spread the loads out through the week instead of doing it all on one day. Of course, putting less water into your septic system provides the additional benefit of putting less demand on your well. DONT let excessive amounts of cooking grease go down the drain. Keep a can next to the sink to collect it. DO maintain confidence in naturally occurring bacteria to break down wastes in your tank and fields. Commercial additives claiming to help get the job done have been shown at best to do nothing and at worse pollute groundwater supplies. DON'T flush diapers, feminine sanitary products or other paper or plastic products into your system. White toilet paper decomposes better than colored paper. DON'T use your septic system as a personal toxic waste dump. Paints, cleaners, solvents and petroleum products can kill your system's bacteria and move on to contaminate the groundwater for your own or your neighbor's well HOUSEHOLD SUBSTANCES THAT SHOULD NOT BE PUT INTO A SEPTIC SYSTEM
CALL THE HEALTH DISTRICT WHEN: 1.You want to pump your septic tank but are unsure of its location. 2. You suspect your septic system may not be functioning properly. 3. You are having problems with your water supply such as lack of supply, colors, unusual taste, odors, and sudsing. 4. You want to have your well tested. The Health District provides collection kits for independent testing. 5. You are planning to build an addition.
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